Asparagus: Harbingers of spring
An eagerly sought harbinger of spring, the asparagus is a distinctive-tasting delicacy with extraordinary nutritional qualities.
By Piergiorgio and Amy Nicoletti
In the early spring and summer, it’s a common sight in the Italian countryside to see elderly couples, or a little group of old friends, slowly walking along the sides of the road, gathering wild asparagus. Until you learn about the custom, you might imagine they are searching for a lost pet. But then, invariably, you’ll spy the slender, light green stalks poking out from each of their hands, and you know what’s going on. Asparagus hunting is a very popular springtime activity in the rural areas of Italy. The most sought-after wild asparagi (plural form in Italian; singular, asparago) are the very thin varieties of the sprout, considered by locals to be the best of all. These wild varieties are impossible to find in markets—they are enjoyed only by those industrious souls who hunt and gather them, and the lucky few invited to their tables. Wild asparagus have existed in Italy from time immemorial; the cultivated asparagus we know today originated from these asparagi selvatici (as “wild asparagus” is called in Italian), which still grow today in the woody underbrush of the forested hilly countryside.
Asparagus stalks are picked from the perennial plant called Asparagus officinalis, of the Liliae family, which derives from the same species as such gorgeous ornamental plants and flowers as the hyacinth, lily, and narcissus. The word “asparagus” comes from the Persian root “asparag.” This term exists in ancient Greek and Latin, and in various Mediterranean languages as well. The longevity of the word demonstrates how far back the botanical and culinary interest in this plant goes—its cultivation dates back thousands of years to ancient Egypt, Greece and Italy, later spreading to Asia Minor, India, China and northern Europe. Asparagi made their first voyages from Europe to the 
Americas in the late 16th century—at just about the same time that tomatoes (pomi d’oro, or golden apples) were making their first trips in the opposite direction.
Today the US is the biggest consumer of asparagus, and a leading producer of many different cultivars, some found only in America. Asparagus are also particularly beloved in England, Germany, and France. But, in Italy, asparagi are more likely to be reserved for special occasions, a sort of luxury item in Italian cuisine—not a pane di tutti i giorni (“daily bread”). Though there are now a great variety of cultivars in Italy, which are exported all over Europe, asparagi are still a rather pricey item in Italian markets compared to other vegetables. In recent years, farmers of the more precious cultivars have tended toward totally organic cultivation, enhancing the overall quality of the local asparagi in Italy.
Asparagus have long been known for their high content of potassium, folic acid, thiamin and vitamins, as well as their diuretic properties. Rich in fiber, they are also very low in calories, with no fats or cholesterol. Asparagus spears grow out from a “crown,” which is planted deep in the soil and starts to yield after two or three years. They can grow with the rapidity of mushrooms—up to their full height in a single day!—and are in full season from the end of March to early June.
Basically there are three types of asparagus: Green asparagus are the most common and easy to grow. They’re firm, slightly bitter and their spears have a greenish-purple tonality. In many countries, this variety is often sold frozen or canned, but in Italy, they are only eaten fresh. Though green asparagi can be delicious, they are not considered to be the delicacy that the white ones are. Legend has it that in the 15th century, after a strong hail storm, some farmers from Bassano del Grappa, in northern Veneto, sadly discovered that their harvest of asparagi was gone. But one farmer spied a white sprout poking up through the soil. He unearthed a bunch of them, tried them out and found they tasted even better than the green ones—and so the famous Asparago di Bassano was born. This so-called white asparagus lives a kind of potato’s life—with no sunlight at all—its growth occurring beneath the soil. Asparagi bianchi (white asparagus) is renowned in Italy and appreciated by gourmands around the world. But perhaps the most special of all is the purple asparagus—tender and very tasty, these purple spears are ideal in salads. The most famous purple asparagus in Italy is the Violetto d’Albenga from the Liguria region (which, by the way, also produces the best basil).
There are different schools of thought about whether asparagi should be peeled and whether the stem, which can be a bit woody, should be eaten—the choice is yours. Our opinion is that when the stalks are very thick, it’s probably wise to peel the stems just until the first buds. You can use the less precious parts of the vegetable for soups. Whichever way you choose, the first step is to wash the asparagi thoroughly. Then, steam them in a little water, in a tall, lidded pot for 5 to 8 minutes—bundled with straw or regular string, with the spears pointing up. If you’re going to be using the tips in a pasta dish, avoid over-cooking them. As for what complements asparagus best, the answer is simple: butter. In top restaurants, asparagi are often baked for just a few minutes with butter and herbs as a side dish. They are also great in salads and omelettes, and in many different Italian preparations—from risotti to a variety of creative pasta dishes (see recipe).
