Beautiful, Bountiful Fresh Figs

Piergiorgio and Amy Nicoletti

The fig is arguably the most voluptuous fruit of the Mediterranean; for fig lovers, savoring this fruit under a tree in Italy on a late summer day is a taste of heaven. Its soft skin bursts with a gentle bite-there's no tart or fuzzy skin to be peeled, no inedible rind to be shucked-yielding a sweet, juicy center that's somehow always a surprise. Fig trees (fichi) grow in abundance throughout Italy-appealing trees withlush, oversized leaves that conceal their delightfully sensuous fruit.

The fig, or ficuscarica, is believed to haveoriginated in western Asia before spreading to the Middle East and throughoutthe Mediterranean countries-from Greece to Tunisia, Spain, and of course Italy.The fig tree has been regarded as sacred in many cultures, occupying almost asillustrious a place in history as the olive tree; fossils of the tree have beenfound dating back 9000 years. During times of famine, figs saved entirepopulations, so it's not surprising that in the Old World, the fig tree carriesan aura of blessing and bounty. Nowadays, figs are a common sight in many partsof the US; though brought to the Americas by the Spaniards at the end of the 16^thcentury, it wasn't until the last half of the 19^th century that figsreally began to be cultivated in the New World-first through the missions inCalifornia and then later in the southeastern states. Today, there are hundredsof cultivars of fig trees in the world, which flourish in temperate andsub-tropical climates, usually yielding two crops a year. In Italy, the secondcrop, which arrives mid-summer and autumn (in California around August),usually bears the best and sweetest fruit.

Figs are one of the healthiest and most nutritious fruits - particularly rich in fiber and minerals, such as calcium, iron and magnesium. Raw figs add vivid color to salads and desserts - the outer skin canvary from green to red to bluish purple, and the inner pulp can range from avery light orange to a violet red; cooked figs add a sweet, exotic and unexpected flavor to a variety of dishes. For a really special summer dinner, here are some suggestions for how you can make an entire meal from start to finish with figs:

Insalata di rucola, prosciutto, fichi, e Parmigiano Reggiano (Arugula salad with figs, prosciuttoand parmigiano)

Clean, wash, and dry two bunchesof arugula and spread evenly on a flat serving plate. Season with extra virgin olive oil and balsamic vinegar, salt and pepper. Arrange three or four ripefigs, cut in quarters, skin side down over the lettuce. Add 8 ounces or so ofthinly sliced prosciutto crudo (Parma or San Daniele) placed in undulating strips. Top with slivers of Parmigiano Reggiano.

Risottocon fichi, taleggio e noci(Risotto with figs, taleggio cheese and walnuts)

This is an unusual taste for a risotto,but the cheese and figs marry beautifully. Proceed as for any risotto (see DeLallo's risotto recipe and video), using a vegetable or chicken broth and 12ounces of Arborio rice-make more if this is your main course. Halfway throughthe cooking (10 minutes or so), add the figs, peeled and chopped. When therisotto is just about finished, turn off the flame, and begin the mantecatura (stirring in the butter andcheese), adding in 3-4 ounces of good quality taleggio or gorgonzola cheese,cut or crumbled, and some grated Parmigiano. Finally, add crushed toasted walnuts (you can toast them in a nonstick pan, ona low flame for 2-3 minutes).

Torta con fichi, formaggio di capra e cipolle (Savory pie with figs, goat cheeseand onions)

For this recipe, you'll needenough puff pastry to make a fairly thick crust, in a medium-size nonstick pan(for low pies or pizzas). Roll out the pastry and lay it out in the pan,crimping the edges; bake in the oven at 360 degrees for 10 minutes. Meanwhile,mix 6 ounces of goat cheese (caprino),1 tablespoon of whole grain mustard, 1 egg and a pinch of salt and pepper. Slowly braise two thinly sliced red onions in butter, adding some water and covering with a lid; cook until the onions are translucent. Using a sharpknife, cut two fresh figs into thin slices. Remove the torta from the oven and spread the goat cheese mixture all over;then evenly spread the onions and figs on top. Return the torta to the oven for another ten minutes; then remove from the oven,add the chives and the almonds, and allow to sit for two minutes. Delicious served with a fresh green salad.

Filettodi maiale arrosto alle erbette e composta di fichi (Roasted pork filet with aromaticherbs and figs compote)

Figs and pork filet are a trulysplendid combination. In Bologna, the capital of the Emilia Romagna region,pork meat reigns supreme. In this region, pork (maiale) is cured in everypossible way and also cooked in tutte le salse (in every possible sauce). Happily,lean and tender filetto di maiale-that is, pork filet-is readily available inmany parts of the US.

To prepare the compote, start bywashing ½ pound of figs; then cut them in half (leaving the skin on), add 6ounces of sugar, ½ glass of dry Marsalawine and four tablespoons of Delallo Private Stock Balsamic Vinegar. Cook veryslowly until the compote has the consistency of jam, adding a bit of water ifnecessary. The compote will last a long time in a small container, and can beused for barbecued pork loin or pork tenderloin scaloppine.

For four people, you'll need twomedium-size pork filets. Season the filets with salt, pepper and rub them wellwith extra virgin olive oil, pressed garlic, some finely chopped fresh sage,rosemary and a few bay leaves. Cover the two filets together with aluminumfoil, and marinate them for four hours in the fridge. Then, brown the meat onall sides in an oven-proof pan, lightly drizzled with olive oil. Then, roastthe filets in the oven at 360 degrees for about 50 minutes. When ready, removethe meat from the oven and allow to cool a few minutes. Cut each filet in thickslices (preserving the juices if you can) and keep it warm. Add a sip of whitewine, port or sherry to the pan to deglaze it, then add two tablespoons ofolive oil to the pan. Place the sliced filets on a warm serving platter.Garnish and serve with roasted potatoes and/or a fresh green salad. 

Note: The composta di fichi is also an elegant match for a youngpecorino cheese-or a caprino (goat cheese) from Piemonte or Toma cheese from Vald'Aosta-served along with pear or appleslices. Also try pairing fresh ricotta and fig compote for a refreshing, lightdessert.

Sorbetto di fichi al Vin Santo (Fig sorbet with Holy Wine)

For this dessert, you'll need a poundor more of ripe fresh figs, cut in quarters. Use a sharp knife to separate thepulp from the skin of each wedge. Place them in a small but thick-bottomed pot,on a low flame; add a half glass of Vin Santo (a Tuscan wine) or some othergood sweet dessert wine, and some lemon peel (use only the yellow part; discardany white pulp since it's very bitter)-cook the mixture slowly until the figsstart to break apart. Add three cups of water, cover and continue to cook for tenminutes or so, stirring once in a while. Then, add three ounces of cane sugarand cook uncovered until the mixture turns into jam. Eliminate the lemon peeland refrigerate for two hours. Then, with a hand blender, slowly mix two cupsof cold water into the chilled jam. Transfer the mixture to a metal bowl andplace in the freezer for three hours, turning it with a wooden spoon everyhour. A half hour before serving, move it back to the fridge. This sorbetto is beautiful served with someraspberries on top of each glass-an elegant way to cool down on a hot summernight.

Roasted Balsamic Fig Salad Blue Cheese

Fresh Fig, Prosciutto and Parmigiano Reggiano Salad

Fresh Figs with Blue Cheese and Peppered Honey

Risotto with Fresh Figs and Taleggio