Easter Lunch in Italy - Pasqua
The jubilation of Easter is nowhere more apparent than at a Pasqua (Easter) lunch in Italy...freshest vegetables of the season, young cheeses, and delicious roasted meats.
By Piergiorgio and Amy Nicoletti
The jubilation of Easter—and jubilant it is, celebrating one of the most joyous occasions in all of Christendom—is nowhere more apparent than at a Pasqua (Easter) lunch in Italy. This springtime banquet is heartily enjoyed by the secular and pious alike. Everyone, regardless of religious persuasion, is moved by the glory of spring in Italy—flowers such as giacinti (hyacinths) and gelsomini (jasmine) seem to magically pop up everywhere, the first delicious vegetables begin to sprout, fruit trees begin to blossom, and the sun shines longer and brighter every day. Though Pasqua is considered the most important religious event of the year in Italy—rivaling Christmas in its religious and cultural importance—this is also a primal celebration of the end of winter and nature’s rebirth.
Celebrated on the first Sunday following the first full moon of the spring equinox, Pasqua is deeply rooted in nature’s cycles. Since exactly when Easter falls is determined by the cycles of the moon instead of the civil calendar, the date changes from year to year. In Italy, not only is Easter Sunday a nationally observed holiday, but the Monday immediately after is also a national holiday, called Pasquetta (literally “Little Easter”) or Lunedì dell’Angelo (Angel’s Monday). The usual custom on Pasquetta is to go out—usually for a picnic, though many choose to eat out at a restaurant (trattoria), or at a friend’s or relative’s instead. There is a famous saying in Italy—Natale con i tuoi, Pasqua con chi vuoi—which means “Christmas with your family, Easter with whomever you like.”
The Italian habit to make a picnic or otherwise eat out on Pasquetta may be traced to early Christian symbolism—according to Christian tradition, this was the day that the resurrected Christ took the path from Jerusalem to Emmaus and appeared before his disciples. So, in Italy, on Pasquetta, it’s a tradition to go “extra muros”—that is, to go “outside the walls.” Today, this often means a trip in the car, if not a plane; nowadays, for many Italians it’s customary to spend the Easter holidays in Paris, London, Prague or other exotic locales.
But this doesn’t mean that Easter has lost its religious significance in Italy. During the forty days of Lent (Quaresima), beginning on Ash Wednesday (Mercoledi delle Ceneri), many Italians still abstain from meat or other pleasures. And, during la Settimana Santa, or Holy Week, more than 3,000 symbolic enactments are staged—from the northern regions to the southern tip of Italy, including its islands, there are countless processions, rites, popular feasts, traditions and sacred performances. On Venerdì Santo, or Holy Friday, the inhabitants of hundreds of villages slowly make their way along ancient roads—sometimes in bare feet—carrying torches to commemorate the Passion. Many fast on Vernerdi Santo or abstain from eating meat on this day. But, on Pasqua the solemnity and abstinence of Holy Week come to a joyous end.
The feast on Easter Sunday is the culmination of weeks of religious rituals as well as an homage to spring. Typically, in Italy, the Pasqua table is vibrant with the fresh colors of early spring—decorated with flowers or peach tree stems and 
beautiful, colored boiled eggs. The season’s freshest vegetables will all play a part in the feast to come: artichokes and asparagus; chard; fava beans; young green beans; spinach and the first luscious sprouts of lettuce of all types. Just as Pasquetta is a time to venture beyond one’s own walls, Easter feasts encourage an adventurous spirit in the cucina (kitchen) as well. At Christmas and New Year’s Eve, Italians are likely to stick to traditional dishes. But, at Pasqua, there is much more diversity and originality, both regionally and within each family. There is no typical antipasto or even primo piatto (first course) for Pasqua. But, since this is the season for early produce, as well as young cured meat and young cheeses, these delicacies will usually be served in some form. For instance, for an appetizer you might well find artichokes as they are prepared in Rome: either Carciofi alla giudia (literally “Artichokes Jewish style”)—a recipe for marinated and fried artichokes that originated in the Jewish ghetto in Rome—or else, artichokes fried in a delicious batter. Another popular primo is a tasty assortment of young pecorino, fava beans, and salame corallina from Lazio. Swordfish or tuna fish carpaccio seasoned with grapefruit, extra virgin olive oil and pink pepper, or a delicious insalata di polpo (octopus salad) are yet other possibilities. Also, in many homes, in every region, various kinds of torte pasqualine (savory Easter pies) are often prepared—using flour, eggs, cheese, herbs, and sometimes a variety of other ingredients. The many different versions of torte di Pasqua seen at Easter are testimony to the originality and imagination that are encouraged on this holiday.
Asparagus are beloved at Easter, and seasoned or prepared in numerous ways; like artichokes, they often become essential ingredients for succulent risotti and pasta dishes. Other popular pasta dishes for Pasqua and Pasquetta are lasagne in all its varieties and pasta al forno, for which every household in Italy has a different recipe. Those who have the time and skill to prepare homemade pasta might make their own local specialty (such as, orecchiette, cavatelli, or pici) or ravioli or tortelloni filled with ricotta and spinach, or fava beans with artichokes and sun-dried tomatoes. The sauces for filled pasta are numerous—from a simple butter or a basic tomato sauce to slow-cooking sauces derived from roasted, braised or stewed meats. A great alternative to pasta, which is always hard to refuse when cooked well, is risotto made with very fresh seafood—or with radicchio or wild herbs. In Venice, this is the best time for the simple and magnificent Risi e bisi (rice and baby peas).
For secondo (the main course), roasted or grilled meat is usually served. For centuries, the most popular choice for Easter has been lamb—not just in Italy, but in many other Mediterranean and European countries as well. We don’t know exactly how the “sacrificial lamb” is prepared in the papal palace, but we do know that in Rome they love their lamb marinated with lemon and rosemary and then roasted. Another typical Roman recipe is Abbacchio alla scottadito, which loosely translated means “lamb that burns your fingers”—that is, succulent grilled lamb chops served with roasted potatoes and sometimes artichokes. In many homes, amazing lamb stews are prepared for Pasqua, and some of the sauce will be duly put aside to season the ravioli or fresh pasta served on Pasquetta. In Tuscany, lamb is slowly braised with onions and carrots, and served with cannellini beans seasoned with sage, rosemary, parsley, garlic and capers. In the Puglia region, Cutturidd is a renowned recipe for boiled lamb with fresh herbs and vegetables. In Trentino, they fry delicious polpettine (little meatballs) made with ground lamb, scallion, parsley and rosemary. In many parts of Italy, baby goat (capretto) or piglet (maialino) are also often roasted—in an oven or grilled over charcoal—for Pasqua.
But traditions evolve and eating habits change. Today there are about six million declared vegetarians in Italy; so the idea of eating a “sacrificial lamb” on Pasqua has become less and less popular in recent times. For those who choose not to eat meat, Easter is one of the best moments of the year for enjoying fresh produce. It’s not difficult to prepare a splendid Pasqua lunch consisting entirely of vegetarian dishes. In vegetarian households, the symbolism of the lamb can be represented by small lamb figurines made of butter, flour and sugar pastry that are then eaten for dessert.
Dolci (dessert) is an important part of the Easter feast, and chocolate eggs are of course among the favorites. In Italy, they always contain a sorpresa (surprise) inside for the kids. The pastiera napoletana is another authentic Easter tradition; originating in Naples this cake is made with ricotta cheese, candied fruit, and orange-blossom water. The pizza pasqualina, a dessert made with cinnamon and chocolate, is a specialty of northern Lazio. In Sicily, cassata and cannoli are the traditional dolci; and in Sardinia, casadina—made with ricotta, raisins and saffron—is usually served.
Pane di Pasqua (Easter bread) is a famous Easter treat made all over Italy; in rural areas, it is made at home, but this Pasqua specialty is also readily available in most bakeries. Sometimes it is prepared as a dessert, other times as a savory pastry. Another popular children’s treat at Easter are homemade biscotti (cookies) in animal shapes, sometimes with almonds.
But, far and away the most popular Easter cake in Italy is the colomba pasquale—a yeasted bread with candied orange peels, topped with coarse sugar and almonds made in the shape of a dove. Like the ubiquitous panettone and pandoro cakes at Christmastime, this dessert—available at every bakery and supermarket for weeks before and even after Pasqua—is guaranteed to show up in every Italian household at some point during the Easter holidays. Like the proverbial rabbits of springtime, colomba cakes seem to reproduce exponentially each year. Fortunately, they all eventually come to a kind and merciful end with a morning cappuccino or an afternoon espresso.
RECIPES
Casareccia Pasta with Artichokes and Sausage
