Risotto 101

Risotto is one of Italy's most glorious and versatile dishes. The rice used to make a perfect risotto (Italy's short-grain Arborio or Carnaroli variety) lends both a natural creaminess and a pleasing al dente bite to the finished dish. The rice is coddled during the entire cooking process to bring out the maximum amount of flavor. First, it is toasted in melted butter to bring out its nuttiness, then it is braised with wine and a hot flavorful broth until it is plump, yielding tender rice that is bound together by its own creamy starch. The dish is completed simply with a generous grating of Parmigiano Reggiano cheese and often some unsalted butter, which is stirred in vigorously to enrich. While risotto alla Parmigiana is itself a perfect meal, risotto can be further embellished with a countless number of ingredients like saffron, winter and summer squashes, wild mushrooms or even lobster.

Best of all, risotto is easy (and quick) to make. Since all of risotto's ingredients store well in the pantry or refrigerator (Arborio or Carnaroli rice, chicken broth, butter, onion, white wine, and Parmigiano Reggiano cheese), it can often be made without a trip to the store. But if you do find yourself at the market, add a few additional ingredients to you cart, which will transform it from a simple meal into a hearty or elegant one:

• Vegetables, like asparagus, butternut squash, or mushrooms;
• Meats, like sausage and hearty ragus;
• Shellfish, such as shrimp, lobster, or scallops;
• And even fruit, as in blueberry or fig risotto, which make an excellent side dish for game or pork.

And while risotto is elementary in both ingredients and technique, there are still many lessons to be learned from the generations of risotto-makers who feel very strongly about its "correct" preparation. With that said, it is also a good idea to forget all that well-meaning advice and simply relax with your wooden spoon in hand. Risotto should be enjoyable and spontaneous with only the barest hint of grandmotherly-style knowledge and tradition chiming in to help you make your best risotto.

Tips for Making Risotto

While making risotto is an easy and rewarding experience, here are several tips and techniques to keep in mind when making your first few batches.

Use pearl-colored, short-grain risotto rice like Arborio or Carnaroli. These varieties release their natural starch during the cooking process, which results in risotto's signature creamy texture. "La perla", the chalky white "pearl" seen in the center of the raw rice, lends a pleasant chewy bite to the finished risotto.

• Do not wash the rice before using. Water will only initiate a premature release of starches from the kernels.
• Use a pot that is wider than it is high, to allow for the uniform evaporation of liquid during the cooking process.
  

  

• The proper ratio of rice to liquid is approximately 1 to 3 ½.
• A wooden spoon with a flat edge (for getting into the corners of the pot) is the best utensil for making risotto.
• Shallots are preferred for making risotto because of their delicate flavor, which does not compete with the rice, broth, or cheese. Yellow onions may be substituted, but do not use red onions, as their pinkish color will bleed into the finished dish.
• Sautéing the rice in butter not only toasts the kernels (providing nuttiness) but also coats them in fat, which helps prevent the kernels from releasing their starch too rapidly. This protects them from falling apart during the vigorous stirring process.
• Olive oil may be substituted for the butter during the initial toasting of the rice, but should never replace it at the end of the dish, when butter (or sometimes cream) is necessary for its emulsifying quality, adding the correct creaminess to the finished risotto.
• Always use a simmering broth. By adding hot broth to the hot rice, you will prevent the delicate starches from hardening during the cooking process, which would mar the risotto's silky texture.
• Add the hot broth only one ladleful at a time, stirring until all the liquid has been absorbed before adding the next batch.
• Make sure to test the risotto frequently as the broth runs low, to avoid overcooking. You may not need to use all of the broth. When in doubt, undercook the risotto, as it will continue to cook while it sits.
• Stir, stir, stir. It is necessary to stir risotto constantly during the cooking process. This prevents the released starches from scorching on the bottom of the pan, and also helps incorporate the fat and starch to create the perfect texture.
• Risotto can be served either soft and runny or more on the firmer side, depending on how much broth you add at the end, and whether you let it absorb before serving. Both textures are acceptable and depend on your own tastes. A general rule of thumb with seafood and vegetable risottos is that they be served looser, and that risottos prepared with game, meat, or mushrooms be served slightly firmer.
• Unsalted butter and Parmigiano-Reggiano (except in seafood risottos) are vigorously stirred in at the end of cooking to give the risotto its glossy, velvety finish.
• Serve your risotto immediately. The longer risotto sits the more liquid it absorbs, and the thicker it becomes.
• MAKING AHEAD: Although risotto cannot be prepared in full ahead of time, you can cook the risotto up through the coating of the kernels in butter. Cover and set aside until ready to finish. The moment the first addition of liquid is added (the wine), the dish will take 18 to 20 minutes to complete.
• LEFTOVERS: Any leftover risotto can be shaped into patties, coated in breadcrumbs, and fried in olive oil, to be served with a salad for a satisfying lunch or light supper.