Simple Italian Dressings

By Piergiorgio and Amy Nicoletti

For native Italians, the term “salad dressing” strikes us as very odd when we first learn it; our own term for it-“condire l'insalata” which means to season a salad (or to add a condiment to it)-is kind of dull in comparison. In fact, visitors to Italy are often disappointed by the lack of variety and small portions of the salads available in most restaurants and trattorie here-and the extremely limited options for dressings. Though we Italians are great fans of salads, our idea about them is very simple; usually there are just a few types offered: insalata verde (which consists simply of greens, such as romana, escarole, and arugula) or insalata mista (which means lettuce with the addition of tomatoes and very occasionally other ingredients like olives, boiled eggs or cheese). Dressings are also remarkably unfussy compared to the choices available in the US. Extra virgin olive oil is always the most essential ingredient, and that is usually simply combined with white or balsamic vinegar-or lemon, which is especially common in the central southern region of Italy. Only in the last generation or so have Italians begun to explore more elaborate vinagrettes and dressings, adapted from France and elsewhere, where salads are very much appreciated.

In any discussion of salad dressings, there are just a couple of things to keep in mind: first and foremost, always apply the dressing just one minute or so before serving it. Otherwise, the vinegar or lemon will wilt the lettuce leaves. Since already-seasoned salads should be thrown out, only dress the amount of salad you intend to eat immediately; you can store the rest in the fridge with a wet kitchen towel on top of it. (Tupperware is perfect for storing salad; just be sure the lettuce is thoroughly dry.) If you have any leftover salad dressing, most can be stored in the refrigerator for a few days or more.

Another very important thing to remember before applying whatever dressing you choose is that it is crucial that you thoroughly dry the lettuce after you've washed it; there is nothing worse than a salad in which the lettuce leaves are soggy with water. If you use a spinner-which is a really great invention-after the first spin, be sure to stop and turn the lettuce. Sometimes the leaves act as a kind of a screen, impeding the water from actually being expelled. If you spin and turn the lettuce a couple of times, you can be sure to enjoy a crisp salad later.

Dressings

When dining out in Italy, first-time visitors are often surprised that salad is not offered at the beginning of a meal; instead, it either accompanies the entrée as a side dish or it's eaten at the end of the meal to cleanse the palate. The next surprise is that the salads are served unseasoned in restaurants-but, you'll find all you need on the table: extra virgin olive oil, aceto balsamico di Modena (balsamic vinegar), white vinegar, salt and pepper. Traditionally, it's all Italians use. At home, one person at the table usually seasons the salad for everybody-most of the time with exactly the same ingredients mentioned above, or using lemon instead of vinegar.

Concerning the proportions of the ingredients, there is an old adagio (adage) in Italy that sums it up beautifully: chi sala l'insalata deve essere un sapiente, chi versa l'aceto un avaro e chi unisce l'olio un prodigo-whoever salts the salad should be a wise person; whoever pours the vinegar should be stingy; and whoever adds the oil should be generous. Really, that tells you all you need to know about the ratios to use-no one in Italy ever uses measuring cups or spoons to make a salad dressing!
 

Some salad dressing recipes

In addition to the basic olive-oil-and-vinegar dressings described above, here are some fresh ideas for dressings for your summer salads:

Al Limone (with lemon)
This one is simple: Pour one tablespoon of freshly pressed lemon juice into a bowl; then, while whisking, add four tablespoons of extra virgin olive oil, one tablespoon of salt, and some freshly ground pepper. This type of dressing is well-suited for salads that accompany (or follow) all kinds of grilled meats and steaks (which are traditionally served with lemon in Italy).

Alla Senape (with mustard)
Mix the following ingredients in a small bowl: pour five tablespoons of aceto balsamico di Modena (or DeLallo Balsamic vinegar), two teaspoons of Dijon mustard (or your favorite kind). With a whisk, mix in a tablespoon of chopped shallots, salt and pepper. Then, slowly whisk in extra virgin olive oil until you've reached the desired consistency. This leftover dressing will be even better in the days to come.

Variation: Depending on the amount of dressing you're preparing, consider adding one or two hard-boiled egg yolks-well-crushed and whisked in with the rest of the ingredients.

Al Pesto alla Genovese (with basil pesto)
In a bowl, pour three tablespoons of DeLallo Balsamic Vinegar and add half a teaspoon of Dijon mustard, mixing with a whisk. Add one tablespoon or more of DeLallo Pesto alla Genovese; while stirring slowly add three tablespoons or so of extra virgin olive oil, some crushed walnuts, and salt and pepper. Whisk the dressing again before gently drizzling it over your salad.

Al Gorgonzola (Gorgonzola salad dressing)
For this dressing, you'll need two ounces of Gorgonzola cheese, four tablespoons of extra virgin olive oil, a bit less than one tablespoon of freshly pressed lemon juice, salt and pepper. First, press the cheese well with a fork, then add the lemon, salt and pepper; slowly add the olive oil to obtain a creamy delicious dressing.

All'aglio e Erbe (with herbs and garlic)
This dressing is delicious over grilled vegetables as well as fresh salads. In a bowl, pour a couple of tablespoons of DeLallo Balsamic vinegar, and add chopped spring onions, one chopped roasted garlic, chopped fresh tarragon, torn dill and herbes de Provence (or other dry herbs that you have in your pantry), salt and pepper. Using a whisk, add in the extra virgin olive oil, mixing until you obtain a smooth consistency.

Allo Yogurt (yoghurt dressing)
Place a teaspoon of Dijon mustard and a dash of balsamic vinegar into a bowl and whisk together; continue whisking as you add 8 ounces of whole-milk yoghurt, the juice of one orange, a pinch of cumin seed, some dill, and a little salt.