Summer in Italy: Think “leggero”—Light!

By Piergiorgio and Amy Nicoletti

It’s really true that everything seems to taste better when we eat outdoors. A soft summer breeze and the smell of flowers and trees are miraculously arousing to the appetite: our nerves are calmed, our senses open, and every flavor seems enhanced. So, it’s not surprising that Italians—consummate sensualists by nature and tradition—love to eat outdoors whenever the season allows it. In the summertime, meals are often enjoyed outside—in a garden, or on a porch or terrace—at home or in a restaurant. (By the way, though we refer to this as “dining al fresco” in the U.S., the expression used in Italy is “mangiar fuori.”) Italians have long summer holidays and they know how to get the most out of them—four to five weeks, often spent at the seashore or in the mountains, basking in the incomparable Italian sunlight and delighting in the season’s splendor—especially a tavola (at the table). The summer months are a feast for the eyes and for the palate: the tomatoes, peppers, zucchini, eggplants, basil and so many other vegetables—to say nothing of the fruit!—are truly exceptional in Italy. The markets overflow with vibrant and gorgeous colors—even the fish in the pescheria (fish store) look happier in the summer.

As the seasons change, so do our appetites and nutritional needs. Between the spring and summer, our food habits undergo a gradual metamorphosis. By the time the hottest months have arrived, most of us are naturally inclined to avoid heavy foods and the long cooking preparations required for winter soups and sauces. Leggero (light) or restare leggeri (staying light) is the Italian credo in the summer—fresh, light, colorful and simple foods are what everyone craves on hot days. Italians tend to eat lukewarm or cold food in the summer; tables are often laden with all kinds of variations of salad—from lettuce-based and raw vegetable salads, to insalate di pasta (pasta salads), insalate di riso (rice salads), and insalate di mare or polpo (seafood or octopus salad). This season is also the time to enjoy stuzzichini (literally “little teasers”) or assaggini (“little tastes”)—appetizers in the style of cicheti in Venice, or tapas in Spain. These appetizers—usually vegetable- or fish-based—are often served cold or room temperature, sometimes accompanied by a cold, fruity Prosecco or Gavi white wine.

Of course, not all cooking is suspended in the summer months; once in a while, most of us feel the need to indulge in the comforting concoctions associated with winter. The occasional, irresistible hankering for a rich flavorful pasta e fagioli (bean soup) or polenta e funghi (polenta and wild mushrooms) must not be ignored, no matter what the season. Also, it should be noted, there are a plenty of classic Italian dishes that are especially delightful in the summer months—such as Spaghetti alle vongole (spaghetti with clams) or Risotto alla pescatora (seafood risotto); though such dishes are served piping hot, no one minds the heat!

In the summer, the custom of eating piatto unico—that is, serving just one dish that combines carbohydrates, proteins and vegetables—is very appealing, especially among the younger generations. In the heat of July, forgoing the hours of preparation, cooking and cleanup associated with the traditional three or four course meal seems like a great idea for many Italian households. And for those concerned that nutritional needs not be sacrificed for the sake of ease and convenience, it’s good to remember that hard cheeses such as parmigiano reggiano, grana padano and trentino contain more than 30% protein—that’s more than any cut of meat!

Insalata di pasta

For delicious summer pasta salads (insalata di pasta), all that’s needed are a bit of fantasy and your natural instinct for color and freshness. The variations are infinite and the cooking required is minimal. The best condiments for lukewarm pasta salads are extra virgin olive oil and fresh herbs like basil, parsley and even rughetta (arugula). Vegetables, such as tomatoes and peppers, can be added raw—or quickly grilled or briefly sautéed in a pan—to instantly add flavor and color to many pasta salads. A classic Italian summer pasta salad contains fresh chopped tomatoes (or quartered, if cherry tomatoes are used); buffalo or regular fresh mozzarella; basil; and extra virgin olive oil added to the cooked and naturally cooled pasta. To these basic ingredients, just add whatever appeals to you, following the season—for example, pitted and chopped olives, capers and thyme; the combinations are endless, as you’ll see below.

Some very important tips about cooking the pasta: Be sure to cook your pasta very al dente—that is, a couple of minutes before the suggested cooking time, remove it from the flame, drain it and spread it on any clean and fairly large surface that you have, and drizzle some olive oil on top. The old marble tables were ideal, but a large plate or your clean kitchen table will also do just fine. It will cool down very quickly, especially if you toss it once in awhile, and you will avoid a mushy preparation. You can run cold water over the pasta (while it’s still in the pot) immediately after you remove it from the flame to stop the cooking process, but only for just a couple of seconds, not more—otherwise you’ll ruin the pasta, causing it to lose its texture and its salt. Whole wheat pasta is recommended for creating wonderfully healthy and refreshing salads. Any cut of pasta will do—short pastas, though, are usually preferred because they are more practical for mixing, serving and eating. One last thing: in insalate di pasta the amount of pasta in proportion to the vegetables is less than in hot pasta dishes.

The following are just a few examples of insalate di pasta—or pasta fredda, as it’s sometimes called—to get your imagination going. All of these pasta dishes should be served lukewarm:

• Farfalle verdi con salmone, zucchini e piselli—Spinach farfalle pasta with salmon, zucchini cut in matchsticks, and peas
• Fusilli alla siciliana—Fusilli pasta with tuna, cured olives, and tomatoes
• Penne integrali con pomodoro fresco, olive, peperoni, melanzanei e mozzarella—Whole wheat penne pasta with fresh tomatoes, olives, peppers, eggplant and mozzarella (see recipe below)

Here’s an exquisite summertime pasta dish to add to your repertoire: Take advantage of the season’s abundance of basil and tomatoes, and try this lighter version of linguine al pesto alla genovese avvantaggiato, substituting raw tomatoes for the potatoes. Cook the linguine together with the green beans; then using a smaller amount of pesto than usual, mix the pasta and green beans with quite a bit of chopped San Marzano or cherry tomatoes--or any tasty ripe tomatoes available. The fresh tomatoes cool down the dish, and keep it light and refreshing.

Insalata di riso (Rice salad)

Insalata di riso is a typical summer dish often served in Italy. It’s nourishing and fresh, and allows you to freely add the things you, your family and your guests love to eat in warm weather. Arborio rice is great for most cold rice dishes, just be sure not to overcook it. Boil the rice in plenty of water. While the rice is still very al dente, take the pot from the fire, and drain most of the water over a colander, then add some more cold water—this time it’s necessary in order to stop the cooking—and drain the rice well. Pour it in a large bowl, add some olive oil, and stir. 

The following is a list of some of the classic ingredients you might
want to add to your insalata di riso (sliced or cut into small cubes):

Marinated Artichoke Hearts
Tuna fish

Cooked ham (prosciutto cotto)
Boiled eggs
Leerdammer or Emmenthal cheese
Peas
Giardiniera (sottaceti)
Roasted Red Peppers
Fresh (raw) champignons, thinly sliced
Roasted eggplant
Celery stalks
Carrots
Asparagus
Anchovies
Olives
Capers
Lemon juice

As you can see, the list is long—and it’s not exhaustive; just select according to your fancy. Many ingredients are ready and do not need any preparation, cutting or cooking. This dish is very easy and quick to prepare, and leftovers can be enjoyed for two or three days. It’s usually served cold.

VARIATION: Instead of rice, if you prefer, you can use the pasta cut Orzo, or Acini di Pepe. Kids and babies love this tiny pasta. This salad is a great way to introduce new (healthy) foods to your child—chopped into bite-size pieces according to their age.

Insalata di mare (Seafood salad)

This is another favorite summertime food in Italy—a wonderful and delicate preparation usually made with boiled fresh octopus, clams, and mussels; the shellfish will open when cooked in a covered pan. Sometimes this salad includes shrimp—previously boiled and cleaned—and baby calamari. Crabmeat, or other fresh seafood, can also be added. The freshness of the fish, the quality of the extra virgin olive oil, and the addition of good-quality lemon make all the difference. The dressing for this salad is made simply with two essential ingredients of Italian cuisine—lemon and olive oil; and add a bit of garlic and parsley, salt, and white or rose pepper.

Note: Insalata di polpo (octopus salad) is beloved in Italy especially along the coasts. It consists of just boiled fresh octopus and tiny slices of celery, seasoned with the same dressing as above. Sometimes it’s served cold or room temperature, but also it can be served warm with potatoes.

Verdure ripiene or gratinate (Stuffed or gratin vegetables)

Grilled vegetables are always appreciated, but the following stuffed vegetables au gratin are a great way to enjoy the myriad of vegetables available in summertime:

•    Pomodori gratinati—baked tomatoes gratin
•    Pomodori ripieni—stuffed baked tomatoes (often with rice)   
•    Funghi ripieni—mushrooms stuffed with parsley, parmigiano, olive oil, and chopped mushroom stems
•    Coste di sedano ripiene—celery stalks stuffed with gorgonzola, robiola or marscarpone, and walnuts
•    Zucchine ripiene—stuffed zucchini with ricotta and sautéed ground beef or veal
•    Peperoni ripieni—stuffed baked peppers (usually stuffed with rice and/or ground beef)

Other notable classic Italian summertime dishes:

•    Vitello tonnato—chilled roasted veal in tuna sauce
•    Cacciucco—a lukewarm, thick soup from the Tuscan seaboard made with chick peas, greens and anchovies
•    Palline di ricotta—spinach and ricotta balls
•    Caponata—a hard-to-define Sicilian masterpiece comprised of eggplant, celery, vinegar, and other delicacies. (There are many variations.)
•    Carciofi con patate, cipollotti e verdurine—artichoke hearts with potatoes, fresh onions, and sautéed greens
•    Patate al cartoccio—potatoes with gorgonzola, walnuts and sage
•    Mozzarella e melanzane alla caprese—grilled eggplant with mozzarella, tomatoes and basil
•    Melanzane gratinate—grilled and baked eggplants with tomatoes and mozzarella

Summer Recipes:

Linguine with White Clam Sauce

White Wine & Lemon Aperitivo

Summer Fruit Trifle

Whole wheat pasta salad with peppers, eggplant, and mozzarella

Italian Potato Salad

Panzanella

Linguine with Red Clam Sauce

Swiss Chard with Pancetta and Potatoes

Pasta Caprese

Mini Zucchini Frittata

Rice Salad with Artichokes Peas and Tuna

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