Wild for Brasato: Italian-Style Braised Meat
Slow and sometimes elaborate cooking can turn many cuts of meat into unforgettably tender and tasty spezzatini (stews) and brasati (braised veal and beef)—both of which are very popular in every region of Italy. Though there is no equivalent in Italian for the expression “comfort foods”—maybe because just about all Italian food would qualify—if there were, these classic cold-weather dishes would certainly be at the top of the list.
In Italy, there is a great tradition of stewing and braising meat, as well as for preparing cutlets, but in general, native Italians are kind of clueless about how to grill or cook a steak. To prove the point, there are no Italian terms to specify gradations of doneness—the concepts of “medium rare” or even “medium” just don’t exist in Italy. Though habits have evolved a bit in the last decades, traditionally, not many people in Italy eat their meat rare or medium rare. Steaks in most Italian households consist of very thin slices of lean, often tough, beef that need to be pounded before cooked; or the meat is cut into thin strips (straccetti) and cooked in a pan—quickly sautéed in extra virgin olive oil and usually served with lemon and a green salad, or rughetta (referred to as “rocket salad” or “arugula” in the US). Inevitably, the thin slices of meat are fully cooked in a matter of seconds; so it’s just about inevitable that meat is served “well-done” in Italy.
But this predilection for well-cooked meat does have its up side—the pinnacle of which is arguably brasato, slowly braised beef, veal or lamb. Brasato al Barolo, a typical dish from the Piemonte region made with beef, is one of my personal favorites. The meat is first marinated in wine and then very slowly cooked in the marinade. In Piemonte, Barolo wine is used, but in the US this can be very pricey and difficult to find—luckily, most full-bodied, good quality red win
e will do just fine.
As far as the choice of meat, in Italy, the recommended cuts are called scamone, punta d'anca, or cappello del prete (butchers’ jargon I can’t translate)—though the best cuts of all for braising are reserved for the priest, the doctor and the butcher himself! In the US, rump roast or top round are preferred, but ask your butcher what he recommends for braising. Just remember, you’ll need a single piece of lean beef, usually from the upper thigh. If the shape is too flat, the meat can be rolled and trussed; but don’t forget that this means the meat will probably cook more quickly too.
My mother used to make an amazing brasato—though, sadly for us, it was usually just once or twice a year. We kids loved it, particularly impressed by its dark brown color on the outside and the rich pink on the inside. We always wished the slices were thicker.
For the classic recipe, see the link above! For my own quick version of it, click here. And, if you’re looking for ideas about what you can do with all those scrumptious leftovers, Pasta al forno al Brasato is a simple and delicious baked pasta.
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