Back to the Farm

There is a new phenomenon, a new trend in Italy, among many concerned consumers, called Spesa a kilometro zero - which literally means "shopping at zero kilometers." The concept itself is not a new thing or an Italian peculiarity. It's an idea that actually began in Germany in the 60's, and today exists all over the world in various forms: in Japan, it's called "Teikei"; in Portugal, it's called "Reciproco"; in France, it's AMAP; and in the United States, it's called Community Supported Agriculture (CSA). All these associations and communities share a common mindset that reflects a concern about the quality and freshness of food and the people that produce it - and a commitment to the idea that consuming local produce is good for us and good for the planet.

Today in Italy it's possible to buy fruit, vegetables, cheese, meat, salumi (air-cured pork meats), wine, and olive oil directly at the farm where they are produced. Buying directly from farmers - either at their farms or at their stands in the open-air market - helps ensure the survival of Italy's centuries-old agricultural tradition. This practice has been on the rise in recent years - increasing income for the farmers, providing fresh and superior quality food for the consumer, and benefiting the environment.

Recently, a new twist has been added: Farmers offer a day of fun in the country to urban families, allowing them to pick their own fruits and vegetables, for which they then pay a very reasonable price. Children in particular love this day in the fields and orchards, picking their own peaches, oranges, cherries, and apples off the trees, enjoying one day away from the city fumes and heat. Of course, the produce couldn't be more fresh or delicious. For the farmer, there are benefits as well: instead of having to pay laborers - who have become more and more scarce - they are able to generate some income; also, having personal contact with the people who enjoy the "fruits of their labor" is an important bonus.

The roots of this trend probably can be traced to the agriturismo industry - a term derived from the Italian words for "agriculture" and "tourism" - a concept which was codified into Italian law in 1986 in an effort to provide economic assistance and some tax advantages to Italy's struggling farmers. Though it takes on many forms, basically an agriturismo is a rural alternative to a hotel. Since the 80's, thousands of farms have been transformed into charming lodgings - from rustic to luxurious - offering genuine Italian ambience and great food. Usually the food served is produced on the farm itself or from neighboring farms. Sometimes, in exchange for help in the fields, a suitable reward - like few liters of olive oil or wine - are offered. Some agriturismos offer cooking or wine classes as well.

These changes in the relationship between the farmer and the consumer represent an important shift in public awareness about food and ecology. Delallo has long understood the importance of supporting Italy's local farmers - using only the freshest, locally grown produce in their products. Trends in thought and nutrition may vary from generation to generation, but the understanding of the importance of how produce is grown has been an enduring aspect of Italian cooking for centuries.