Mortadella di Bologna
Not your average deli meat: all you need to know about Bologna's signature salumeria, Mortadella.
By Piergiorgio and Amy Nicoletti
Mortadella di Bologna (I.G.P.) is Bologna’s signature salumeria. Its distinctive appearance is immediately recognizable: light pinkish in color, speckled with white spots, and compared to a roll of salami, it is enormous. Some mortadelle have a diameter of 12 inches or more; the weight varies from a meager pound to several hundred pounds! Its flavor is as unique as its appearance—an intense aroma with a hint of spices. It is puro suino—that is, made purely of pork meat—and only high quality cuts of meat are used. The meat is very finely ground and then the best quality pork lard is added, giving mortadella its spotted look. But, contrary to what many people think, mortadella is actually low in fats—only 28% lipids—and high in protein, nearly 15%.
Mortadella belongs to the category of salumi insaccati—cooked air-cured pork meat encased in a natural or synthetic skin. Though its early history is unclear, it’s believed to have ancient Roman origins. The name may be derived from the Latin term farcimen myrtatum, which referred to a cooked, finely texture sausage flavored with myrtle. Or, the name may come from the Italian word for “mortar”—“mortarium”—which was used to grind the meat. In 12th-century Bologna, powerful guilds of salaroli and lardaioli—skilled workers specialized in preserving pork meat—began forming, and rules regarding the production of salumi were implemented, with hefty fines imposed for those who didn’t comply. In 1661, Cardinal Farnese of Bologna codified the rules and methods for the preparation of mortadella. A flourishing trade industry developed for this delicacy, which was sought after by important and noble families all over Europe. In those times, mortadella was very highly praised and demanded, even more than prosciutti.
Today mortadella is the favored salume for most of the 100,000 university students who reside in Bologna—partly because it’s so satisfying when you’re hungry, but also because the price is nearly a third of prosciutto crudo. It’s affordable cost and filling taste makes mortadella a popular favorite, but, in Italy, it is by no means a mediocre product. Perfect with fresh and warm crescentine (also called tigelle), which is a local flat bread made in Emilia, served warm, or in panini (rolls), mortadella is almost always present at any party or aperitivo—Italy’s version of the “happy hour” when local bars offer a generous array of free appetizers with drinks—often cut in cubes and served with a toothpick. I personally like mortadella di Bologna cut in very thin slices and eaten just as it is—it’s so tender it melts in your mouth—with just a piece of bread and a glass of red wine.
Mousse of Mortadella di Bologna over crostini (slices of toasted or grilled country bread) is another great way to enjoy mortadella. It’s simple to prepare: Cut ½ lb of Mortadella Bologna in pieces and combine it in a food processor with 2 tablespoons of Parmigiano Reggiano and three tablespoons of fresh cream. When the mixture is smooth and homogeneous, empty it into a bowl with a spatula and blend in another 3 ½ ounces of fresh cream, mixing very gently from the bottom upwards. Divide the mousse into two smaller bowls and decorate with some pistachio nuts.
