Parmigiano-Reggiano: The King of Italian Cheeses

By Piergiorgio and Amy Nicoletti

 There are three main varieties of grana cheese—Parmigiano-Reggiano, Grana Padano and Grana Trentino. Grana means “grainy” and refers to the flaky and granular texture of all these cheeses. Their common origin dates back to the mid-12^th century in Lombardy, when they were first created by the Cistercian monks of the Abbey of Chiaravalle, near Milan in Lombardy. From there, the production of grana spread throughout the region now known as Emilia-Romagna and into many areas of Northern Italy, including the fertile plains of the Po Valley. The production methods for making the three varieties of grana are similar, but each follows its own strict set of guidelines and laws regarding not only the production of the cheese, but also the farming and cattle-feeding practices (which affect the quality of the milk), as well as the type of rennet used. All three grana carry the label D.O.P. (Denomination of Protected Origin), which is the prestigious designation given by the European Union to a select group of products, guaranteeing their origin and assuring the authenticity of the production methods. The place of highest distinction, however, is reserved for Parmigiano-Reggiano—which is a 100% natural cheese.

Like so many of the authentic treasures of Italian cuisine, the history of grana goes back almost a thousand years, beginning with the long and laborious drainage of the vast marshy and woody areas of the central Po River valley, which had been uncultivable for centuries. This massive undertaking was implemented by the local rural populations of Lombardy and Emilia, with the help and supervision of the Cistercian and Benedictine monks. The impressive feat was accomplished in a few decades, and soon the fields became fertile. As hay and grass became available in larger quantities, cattle farming improved and spread throughout the region. Soon, there was an overabundance of milk, and the need to find ways to avoid wasting it. Cheese might seem obvious today, but that great boon to gastronomy was yet to be invented. It required a sort of miraculous coalescing of different factors for the first cheese to originate. Milk in ancient times was often transported in leather pouches called otri, made from the stomachs of goats and cows, which were hung from the saddles of horses and donkeys. The inner lining of these bags naturally contained residual rennet (an important enzyme in making cheese), which combined with the movement and the heat of the animals is believed to have provided the happy coincidence that led to the discovery of cheese. It wasn’t long before people wanted to find a way to make a harder cheese—one that could keep for longer periods without perishing.

The first cow cheese that was aged for many months was called caseus vetus, literally “old cheese.” The ultimate recipe for this was most likely the result of a great deal of labor, trial and error, and the cumulative experience and creativity of many. Eventually, the “perfect” recipe was codified by the different monk’s orders and jealously guarded for years to come. Radical improvements came with the mastering of various techniques in heating, brining and drying, as well as the expert usage of whey and calf rennet in the production of grana. Except for the addition of some simple mechanization and the refinement of various instruments, in the more than 800 years since its invention little has changed in the way grana is made.

Production

If you’ve ever seen a whole wheel of Parmigiano-Reggiano—an impressive 18 inches in diameter, about 8 inches high and weighing about 85 pounds—it’s hard to imagine how such an unwieldy creation could have been made. But, of course, it all starts with cow’s milk—the morning’s fresh raw cow’s milk combined with skimmed milk from the previous evening—poured into huge copper caldrons. Each copper caldron contains 290 gallons of milk, which yields two large wheels of cheese. The milk mixture is slightly warmed and then a “starter” whey, derived from the previous day’s cheese production—is then added to the caldrons. The starteris an essential aspect of the art of the master cheese maker, because the quantity used must be sensitively adjusted according to the acidity of the milk and other factors.

Next, calf rennet, which contains a very strong coagulant enzyme, is added to the milk mixture. After about ten minutes, when the cheesemaker feels the curds starting to form at the bottom of the vat, he begins to break them up with a long instrument called a spino, a thick wooden stick with a sort of huge kitchen whiskat the end. Then the temperature of the mixture is raised to 130 degrees—a very delicate moment because the mixing and breaking of the curds requires the expert skill and physical strength of a master cheese maker. After this step, the cheese is left to rest in the vats—for about one hour—until the casaro has determined that the whitish curd cheese is sufficiently compacted and has attained the required consistency. Then, with the right tools and the help of an assistant, the heavy mass of cheese is pulled out with a large muslin cloth and cut into two parts, which are each placed in a circular mold, wrapped in the muslin with a numbered label. A few hours later, each cheese wheel is branded with distinctive marks; around the circumference of each wheel, the famous dotted name, as well as the month and year of production, are embossed. Grana Padano and Grana Trentino each have their own distinctive branding.

Aging

The aging process varies for the three types of grana according to each cheese’s method, but for Parmigiano-Reggiano, the regulations are the most demanding. After a few days, the wheels are immersed for about four weeks in large baths of salt and water, in which they are repeatedly turned. Then, they are laid to rest on wooden shelves in huge rooms with a constant humidity of 85 to 90% and carefully controlled temperatures. They are periodically inspected and turned, and the natural outer rind brushed manually or mechanically. After 12 months, each wheel is inspected with special tools—such as a tiny hammer for testing the sound of each wheel to reveal any faults in consistency, and a long needle to check its aroma. If a wheel doesn’t meet the DPO standards, part of the rind will be scraped in a particular way that signals to vendors and consumers that it must be sold as a mezzano, which is a good second-tier Parmigiano. Only the top-quality cheeses that pass the tests will be fire branded with the consortium logo and left to age 18 months; these are called “extra” or “export” and will carry a red seal. Parmigiano-Reggiano that carries a silver seal has matured for 24 months; the gold seal is reserved for the very best, called stravecchio, which is aged 30 months or more.

Parmigiano-Reggiano, or Parmigiano, is considered superior to all other grana cheeses for a host of reasons; the scrupulously monitored milk that goes into this cheese comes from cattle fed exclusively on locally grown forage; the final product is a purely natural product—the only additive allowed is salt. It is produced solely in the provinces of Parma, Reggio Emilia and parts of Modena and Bologna. In many shops, markets and supermarkets in Italy, it’s possible to find grana or Parmigiano already grated or grated on demand. It’s the real thing and it saves some time and labor if you don’t have an electric grater—but it must be consumed quickly. Elsewhere in Europe and in the US, it’s common to find a generic grated cheese, usually called “parmesan.” It’s often not clear what cheese is used, but it’s certainly not Parmigiano-Reggiano.

The Cheese

The renown of Parmigiano-Reggiano and other types of grana is in part due to their truly extraordinary nutritional value. These cheeses have the highest percentage of proteins of any cheese—33%, which is far more protein than any meat, and these proteins are very digestible. All varieties of grana contain large quantities of numerous mineral salts like calcium, magnesium, phosphorous, and potassium as well as vitamin A, B complex, and PP. Parmigiano in particular is recommended for babies, children and the elderly, as well as for athletes.

The use of grana in the kitchen and on the table is vast. In Italy, Parmigiano is mainly grated over pasta, soups and risotto. When to use Pecorino Romano versus Parmigiano is obvious to most Italians because the choice is based on long-standing recipes and traditions—but for the rest of us, a good rule of thumb is use Parmigiano for more delicate flavors.

Parmigiano-Reggiano, Grana Padano and Grana Trentino are often used interchangeably and are important ingredients in countless recipes—from filled pastas and crepes to gnocchi or meatloaf.One of the most elegant yet simple ways to enjoy Parmigiano-Reggiano is in the remarkable Carpaccio recipe, where Parmigiano is served in slivers on top of thin slices of raw beef tenderloin. Balsamic vinegar is the perfect complement for grana, as a simple dipping glaze or in salads. As a dessert, it can be enjoyed with various fruit, particularly with pears. Parmigiano is also eaten just as it is, at the end of a meal or during the day as a snack—as just about every Italian kid can tell you!

Some of our favorite RECIPES with Parmigiano:

• Parmigiano-Reggiano Risotto
• Creamy Parmesan Whole Wheat Orzo
• Crunchy Parmesan Chicken
• Prosciutto & Parmigiano Stuffed Mushrooms
• Veal with Balsamic & Parmigiano