Torrone: Italy's Candy Bar
Torrone is a cream-colored confection of sugar, honey and egg whites speckled with toasted, sliced almonds. While it is normally a treat eaten around the holidays, torrone can be enjoyed any time of the year.
By Piergiorgio and Amy Nicoletti
It’s just about as difficult to determine the origins of torrone as to know who invented hot water. Contrary to panettone (or panetùn, as it’s called in Milanese dialect) which every Italian knows is a Milanese creation, the history of torroneis convoluted and uncertain. Some forms of this dolciume (confectionery) were prepared as early as Roman times. The first documented mentions of torrone come from the Early Renaissance in Spain; it’s uncertain if this delicacy arrived to the Sicilian coasts from there. Some forms of torrone came certainly from North Africa or Egypt. In those regions they used to eat little sweet candies made with honey and sesame seeds. One thing is sure: it’s an ancient, pre-medieval recipe for Christmas candy made of sugar and honey, egg whites (albume, in Italian), almonds or hazelnuts, and sometimes with various spices. In Italy, torrone is usually sold in long rectangles—a light-colored confection with sliced almonds visible throughout—like an oversized candy bar.
Torrone, in all its forms, is beloved all over Italy even though the best is made in Sardinia, Calabria, Sicily and Abruzzo—anywhere the best almonds and hazelnuts which are becoming more and more popular) can be found. In the Veneto region, a form of torrone called mandorlato—made with almonds—is very popular. The length and method of toasting the nuts seems crucial in the making of an excellent torrone.
Traditionally, torrone is eaten after lunches and dinner from Christmas Day until January 6th, or the Epiphany (also called giorno della Befana)—though, you can eat torrone in July if you wish. Today, many varieties exist: soft and hard, classic or with chocolate, with almonds, hazelnuts or occasionally pistachios. Torrone is often served with an after-dinner amaro (bitter liqueur), a sambuca (a sweet anise-tasting digestivo), or a liquore such as Strega.
