Traditional Balsamic Vinegar Of Modena, Italy
In the Middle Ages, if you found yourself in the enviable position of being summoned by the Pope, or a king or a princess, you most certainly would not go empty-handed—a most valuable gift of extraordinary distinction would undoubtedly be sought. If you could make your way to the Duchy of Modena (an area in northern Italy, now delineated by the two provinces of Reggio and Emilia), you would find your treasure: a tiny silver barrel or small crystal bottle filled with a thick and precious syrup—an exquisitely aged balsamic vinegar.
This very special balsamic vinegar is now known as Aceto Balsamico Tradizionale di Modena (TBVM), or Traditional Balsamic Vinegar of Modena—or more simply called, “Tradizionale” in Italian. This Tradizionale is aged in various kinds of wooden barrels— oak, chestnut, mulberry, cherry, ash and juniper, each one lending a unique aroma and affecting the color—from 12 to 25 years. Over this time, the vinegar is repeatedly transferred to smaller and smaller containers with sensitive adjustments to its contents, using extremely accurate refining methods, and giving careful attention to the racking of the barrels. Techniques and recipes for making this vinegar have been handed down through the centuries; strict adherence to exacting codes of standards (“disciplinare” in Italian), monitored by the two consortia of Traditional Balsamic Vinegar producers (Modena and Reggio Emilia), safeguards the authenticity and quality of every batch. A very small bottle (100 ml) of the highest quality balsamico can cost a small fortune, even if you go directly to Modena to get it.
For many of us, the Tradizionale may be beyond our reach (geographically or financially); but rich, flavorful and affordable true balsamic vinegars—referred to as “commercial balsamic vinegar”—are readily available today that weren’t just a quarter of a century ago. The DeLallo line of commercial balsamic vinegars – such as, the Balsamic Vinegar of Modena (aged six months) and the Private Stock (aged three years) – are true balsamic vinegars. As such, these vinegars must adhere to the rigorous standards enforced by EEC (European Economic Community) laws; the regulations for commercial balsamic vinegars are not as restrictive as for the Tradizionale, but they are still rigorous. For example, The IGP (Indicazione Geografica Protetta, or Protected Geographic Indication) guarantees that all Balsamic Vinegars of Modena are produced exclusively in the Modena area, with must from grapes grown in the Emilia-Romagna region. Also, the exact percentages of all the ingredients used in commercial balsamic vinegars—grape must, wine vinegar and caramel—are set by law; furthermore, acidity levels are strictly regulated. Recent EEC regulations require that after the blending of the ingredients, commercial balsamic vinegars must ferment for a minimum of two months in oak and chestnut casks. All of Delallo’s Balsamic Vinegars surpass this minimum aging period, producing vinegars with a complex, sweet and smooth flavor. The longer the vinegar ages, the mellower its taste, and the thicker and more complex its consistency becomes, as in DeLallo Private Stock.
The spectrum for vinegar is truly vast, from the most extravagant vinegar fit for royalty to those that are used primarily as ecological household cleansers! The most basic but tasty vinegars are principally derived from fermented wine; in fact, the word “vinegar” derives from the French words “vin aigre,” meaning “sour wine.” However, vinegar can be obtained from a variety of fermented liquids besides wine, such as cider or beer, as well as from fruits and cereals, such as malt. Of course, the taste and qualities of vinegar vary enormously, depending on a host of factors, including the substance from which it is derived, the processes used in fermenting, the addition of other ingredients, and whether or not it is aged, and for how long. Simple forms of vinegar have existed for thousands of years; references to them are found in the Old Testament, and there is evidence of their use going back even further than that.
But its appearance in early Roman times is of particular interest in the history of gastronomy. Early Romans are said to have taken special pleasure in the mixture of sweet and sour flavors in their cuisine, and so the use of vinegar is known to have played an important part in their cooking. The Latin poet Publio Virgilio describes a condiment that was derived from the slow process of cooking grape must (that is, unfermented grape juice)—called defrutum, or sapa or caraenum, depending on its level of concentration. This syrupy substance was used in place of honey for sweetening wine and vinegars. This same substance was and remains today an important ingredient for making the famous balsamic vinegars of Modena.
This region, the ancient territory of the Duchy of Modena, has a long tradition of cooking grapes. This practice is due, at least in part, to the fact that the grapes from this region happen to yield wine with a very low alcohol level, making them best suited for vinegar. Over the centuries, the custom of cooking grape must and aging it in barrels eventually led to the development of the unique “balsamic” vinegar.
The term “balsamic” refers back to the popular belief that wine vinegars had therapeutic qualities; balsamico vinegar in particular was thought to contain special healing properties due to its concentrated form and the presence of the dark grape must. The famous composer and epicurean Gioacchino Rossini is known to have had a passion for balsamico, praising its beneficial qualities in letters. He once wrote to his friend Angelo Castellani: “…just a little vinegar from Modena, with its proven refreshing, soothing properties, soon restored some measure of health and tranquility…” Though wine vinegars had been used since ancient times for medicinal purposes, certainly the secrecy surrounding the methods used to produce balsamico vinegar added a great deal to the legend of its special power.
An aura of mystery has always surrounded certain aspects of the production of balsamic vinegar, going back to an edict for secrecy decreed by the guild of acetaie (vinegar makers) in 1394. It is known that hundreds of different methods and recipes were tried and developed. At least until the 18th century, the use of spices and fruit were common in balsamic vinegar, as well as other special vinegars. At certain stages of the fermentation process, licorice juice, cloves, coriander, nutmeg, pepper and juniper berries were sometimes added to the wood barrels in which the nectar was aged. Even dried fruits like figs and apples were occasionally left in the barrels for short periods as well.
There are many stories dating from the Middle Ages through the Renaissance and beyond that celebrate the enormous value and prestige bestowed upon balsamic vinegar. One notable example (among many) comes from a manuscript describing an extraordinary gift made in Piacenza in 1046 by Boniface of Canossa (the powerful lord of many provinces of Northern Italy, including Modena) to Henry III, King of Franconia and Emperor of the Roman Holy Empire. The gift was a small silver barrel of balsamic vinegar from Modena, and it is said to have been so greatly appreciated, it remained unrivaled even by the “hundreds of horses, goshawks and other birds of prey” the emperor received. So legends go, but the fact is that to this day, the sweet-and-sour, dark and thick Aceto Balsamico Tradizionale di Modena is a vinegar like no other.
However, an equally important truth is that nowadays the true balsamic commercial vinegars provide outstanding flavor and a unique consistency at affordable prices. Balsamic Vinegar of Modena can be used in a wide variety of culinary delights: in combination with just about any boiled or roasted meats; or as a complement for certain fish dishes, such as a warm baby octopus antipasto or boiled sea bass. Drizzle it over raw or braised vegetables, or various carpaccio appetizers, or over chips of Parmigiano cheese for an elegant dessert. It adds a great flavor to any sauce reduction, especially tasty for meat preparations. The most common way to use balsamic vinegar is as a base for salad vinaigrette: just add finely sliced shallots, tarragon, Dijon mustard, salt and pepper to the vinegar, then slowly add in the extra virgin olive oil, stirring briskly with a whisk. This dressing over a mesclun salad topped with walnuts is superb. When a lighter color for dressings is sought, Golden Balsamic Vinegar – made from white grape must – is recommended.
But other vinegars have an important place in cooking as well. In recipes where a sweet-and-sour element is sought, white wine vinegar provides just the right flavor – such as, the Venetian Sardine in saor (sardines in sweet-sour marinade) or the classic Cipolline Agridolce (little onions in sweet-and-sour marinade) where a mixture of white and balsamic vinegars can be used. Good-quality white or red wine vinegar goes well with onions in creating delicious caramelized sauces. White wine vinegar is also used in making marinades, and adding it to some roasted meat preparations helps to disperse and blend any excess fat, such as in Chicken Cacciatore.
In Italy, there are basically just three kinds of vinegars commonly used: white and red wine vinegar and balsamic vinegar. But, in restaurants and in private gourmet cuisines, it’s not unusual to see bottles of Sherry, Port and even Champagne vinegars as well as raspberry or basil flavored vinegars. Vinegar is used in Italian kitchens for many condiment preparations, including vinaigrettes, salad dressings, mustards and mayonnaises, and for pickling.
But, perhaps the final word on vinegar should go to the Traditional Balsamic Vinegar of Modena, which remains in a class of its own. This product’s unique qualities have earned it the D.O.P. seal (the Protected Denomination of Origin), which guarantees its origin and the authenticity of the methods used in its production. Only a select group of European products is conferred this status—such as, Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese, San Marzano tomatoes, and Zafferano dell’Aquila (saffron from L’Aquila in Abruzzo). For the Tradizionale to bear this official stamp of distinction, the three stages of production must follow stringent standards and regulations set by the Consorzio del Balsamico Tradizionale di Modena: the grapes (Lambrusco and Trebbiano, in particular) must be harvested in the province of Modena; cooking of the grape must (which should occur almost simultaneously with the pressing of the grapes) has to comply with strict regulations; and finally, the aging and decanting methods must conform to the specifications mentioned earlier. Of course, as with all genuine balsamic vinegars, all stages of production must be done in the province Modena. Finally, the one and only ingredient used in the making of the Tradizionale is grape must.
In Italy, consortia of producers have been formed and battles have been fought in the European Union agricultural commissions to protect the uniqueness and inimitable characteristics of Italy’s most renowned local foods. Though, this concern is not unique to Italy, Italians are particularly aware of the value of preserving their centuries-old traditions in food preparations and protecting the genuineness of their products. Though most of us are grateful to now live in a world where not only kings and queens can enjoy a variety of delectable balsamic vinegars, it is nonetheless comforting to know that the traditions and recipes behind these products are still carefully protected.